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  Imperial Hardwood Architectural Products 

Corbel & Carvings Wood Properties

 

WOOD IS A ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCT - A RENEWABLE RESOURCE

 

IMPORTANT STUFF:        click below to link to properties 

 

Interior Hardwoods - Paint Grade   

LindenWood (Basswood)  

Maple (Regular)

 

 

 Interior Hardwoods - Stain Grade or Paint   click below to link to properties 

Alder

Cherry

Maple (Regular)

Premium Sap Maple

Red Oak

Walnut     

                                  

 

FINISHING NOTES:

 

FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses. Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable products. Always test a small area of the piece to be stained before doing the entire piece. Staining the back makes a good tester.

Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or let multiple rags pile up. 

Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!  Dispose of rags inside a metal can filled with water.

Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.

Never through old stains or solvents down the sink or toilet.

 

 

   All About Alder   

  

 Brief Description: 

 It is a hardwood. The wood is a favorite in Western North America.

 There are two major grades of Alder, Character alder or Knotty Alder which as

 small knots.  Clear Alder is a premium grade product. 

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Alder is a good alternative to Cherry.  Unlike Cherry it does not change it's color through oxidization as does Cherry. 

 FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain of the base wood?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 

 

 

 

 

   All About Cherry              

      

 Brief Description: 

 It is an expensive hardwood for furniture making.

 The tree is slow growing producing mostly  red brown wood.

 Cherry stains well. 

 There is a mixture of sapwood and heartwood for most  manufactured goods unless specified. 

 Cherry will darken with age, unlike Alder that stays relatively consistent over time.

 

 

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Stains very well.  For economy, one might consider using Maple with a Cherry Stain as a good alternative. Cherry or Maple are not  hairy, thus a

 smoother texture to provide even staining. 

 FAQ: Will the Cherry be consistent in color?

 Unless you specifiy all heartwood or all sapwood, there will be variable pieces of various colors.  Expect to pay much more for premium wood

 matched.   Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

 No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 

 

   All About Lindenwood or Basswood        

 

 Brief Description: 

  Linden has the consistency of soft maple.  

  It is a type of basswood and is very white in color.

  There is little grain. 

  It is relatively soft and is easy to carve unlike harder woods like oak.

 

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Due to it's white appearance and little grain, this wood paints very well. However for staining we would suggest Maple, Alder, or Oak.

 If you choose to stain Linden, be aware that it very porous and the wood cells will expand creating a rough appearance.  Use Benite or another

 wood conditioner to seal up the wood pores before staining.    A harder wood like Maple, does not allow the stain to absorb in such a manner.  

 Some finishers suggest a mix of stain and glaze.

 

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 

 FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain of the base wood?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 

 

 

   All About Maple     

        
 

  Southern Soft Maple:   This wood comes mostly from the Southern USA.   It is very brown-red in color and has little grain.

  It is excellent for making kitchen cabinetry, furniture, and carvings.  Although the wood is very hard, it is softer than hard maple.

  Both are hardwoods.  The tree grows fast and can be harvested and is a renewable resource. It is excellent for painting and staining.  

 

 Northern Soft Maple:

  This wood comes mostly from Southern Canada & northern USA.

  It is very white in color and has little grain. It is excellent for making kitchen cabinetry, furniture, and carvings. 

  Although the wood is very hard, it is softer than hard maple. Both are hardwoods.  The tree grows fast and can

  be harvested and is a renewable resource. It is excellent   for painting and staining.  

 

 SAP Maple:  This part of the tree is very white and has few color variations. It is a special request and comes at a premium price. 

 

  FAQ: Can I use Maple outside?

 No:  It is not to be used for exterior applications as it will rot very quickly. For exterior use, one could consider Pine.

 The best wood for exterior use is Cedar. 

 

  FAQ: Is there a more grainy wood to consider?

   Yes: One could consider White Pine as it is has more grain but maintains a white appearance.

  FAQ: Is there a wood with the same grain but darker?

  Yes: One could consider southern soft maple as it resembles cherry but with less grain.

 

   FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

  No two pieces are identical.  Sap Maple is the inner part of the log and is more white - premium priced  Heartwood Maple is the outer part

  of the log with greater variances

 

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 

 FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain of the base wood?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 

 

 

   All About Red Oak        

           

 Brief Description: 

 It is a hardwood. The tree is slow growing producing mostly red brown wood.

 Red oak is very hard and grainy. It appears to be rougher than other woods. 

 When stained the grain is enhanced greatly. 

 Red Oak is very hard and is difficult to get great results in carving.

 Red Oak carvings are very beautiful because of their more rustic look.

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Red Oak stains very well.  You may have to stain it a few times to get the right color as Red Oak is hard and may not absorb the

 stain that fast.  Some finishers suggest a mix of stain and glaze.

 

 FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain of the base wood?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 

 

 

 

 

Walnut          

  This wood is very hard and dark.

   It makes beautiful carvings and veneers for furniture,

   especially in the hard knot areas known as burled walnut. 

 

  FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain?

  Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color

   and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

   No two pieces are identical.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  How to Order Products 

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  * All Prices & specifications in this website subject to change without notice

  * Prices are net, Freight, Taxes & Duties charged where applicable otherwise client is responsible for remittance

  * Measurements are approximate only, Final Product may vary from this website

   COPYRIGHT Imperial Productions & Distribution Inc. Apr 1, 2003  all rights reserved

  Last Update of this page:    FEB-2011